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“Bohème offers a rare blend: design-driven comfort and access to one of Southeast Asia’s least-touristed interiors.”

The Azure Road Take

Laos isn’t known for big-ticket luxury, which makes Bohème all the more unexpected. This river’s largest ship, launched by Mekong Kingdoms in December 2024, reimagines travel along the Upper Mekong not as a spectacle, but as a deeply considered experience. With just 13 suites and a 26-passenger capacity sailing a route connecting Luang Prabang and Vientiane, Bohème offers a rare blend: design-driven comfort and access to one of Southeast Asia’s least-touristed interiors.

The boat’s a beauty, but the surroundings do most of the legwork — temples tucked into riverbanks, limestone cliffs rising out of the haze, and water buffalo ankle-deep in silt. This isn’t a cruise packed with entertainment or elaborate programming. Instead, the luxury is in the space between things: in watching the land change shape, in sitting still long enough to see what passes.

Who’s it for?

Travelers who don’t want to be “entertained” but engaged. Couples seeking a leg of their trip that feels slower without sacrificing comfort. People who read on vacation and actually finish the book. This is for those who prefer a river cruise without the programmed cheerfulness, where the itinerary leaves room for weather, light, and the pace of the Mekong itself.

Monks seeking alms in Luang Prabang. Courtesy of Mekong Kingdoms

Sustainability Chops

Bohème’s approach to sustainability goes beyond the usual nods to local sourcing and plastic-free policies. The ship employs staff not only from Laos but also from neighboring Myanmar—many of whom have fled the country’s military government and are seeking safety and meaningful work. Their presence adds depth to the hospitality onboard and reflects the region’s interwoven social and political realities.

Shore excursions aren’t superficial stops—they are designed to direct income toward artisan communities and conservation efforts. Guests visit weavers and paper-makers in riverside villages like Ban Xang Khong, where traditional skills still support local economies. At the Xayaboury Elephant Conservation Centre, the focus is on rehabilitation and education, not staged photo ops. Guides are from the region, and their perspective shapes every outing.

The cruise itself begins not with Champagne, but with a baci ceremony, a centuries-old Laotian tradition meant to welcome and bless travelers. There’s no microphone, no translation app — just the soft voice of a village elder chanting: “Ma der khuan euy.” Please come, spirits. One by one, guests receive a string of white cotton tied around the wrist, each loop accompanied by a whispered blessing of good luck.

The ritual ends with the passing of food — sticky rice cakes, mango slices, sweet crunchy bread — shared from the same plate. It’s a small, tactile gesture that says more than any welcome drink could. In Laos, community isn’t a concept but a practice, and to its credit, Bohème lets that lead the experience.

A gorgeous suite filed with local textiles and teak wood. Courtesy of Mekong Kingdoms

The Location

The journey begins in Luang Prabang, where the Mekong meets the Nam Khan and temple spires rise above sloped tile roofs. Monks walk at dawn. By mid-morning, cafés fill with the scent of Laotian-grown coffee, and travelers drift through storefronts that double as workshops. Boutiques sell garments dyed with indigo and stitched by women of the hill tribes like the Akha and Hmong. The shops don’t feel curated for tourists; they feel like extensions of homes, workshops, and co-ops, where skill is passed down between generations.

Across the river, in the village of Ban Chan Neu, guests can visit the Lao Pottery House. Pottery has been made here for more than 400 years, though the tradition nearly disappeared. Local belief once held that selling clay goods would strip them of their blessings. In recent years, government-supported initiatives have helped revive the practice. At the Lao Pottery House, guests take part in hands-on classes led by a team of multiskilled artisans—some living with disabilities, others recovering from addiction. 

From Luang Prabang, the boat heads south. At the Pak Ou Caves, hundreds of Buddha figures left by pilgrims over generations fill niches in limestone cliffs. Inland, the Kuang Si Waterfalls cascade through jungle and limestone, forming a ladder of bright turquoise pools.

Farther downstream is Ban Xang Khong, a village known for its handmade paper. Guests meet the artisans, then step into the process of tearing mulberry bark into pulp, spreading it across a water-filled frame, and arranging dried flowers atop. Each piece of art is left to dry before being delivered to guest cabins on the ship. 

The deck of a spacious suite. Courtesy of Mekong Kingdoms

The trip includes a stop at the Xayaboury Elephant Conservation Centre where elephants now live in protected forest. Guests don’t ride or feed them. Instead, they learn about the animals, displaced by logging and development, from conservationists who’ve been doing the work for years.

The cruise ends in Vientiane, a capital city where French facades crumble alongside golden stupas and vendors grill fish in banana leaves over charcoal along the riverfront.

Rooms

Bohème’s 13 suites are spread across three categories: Deluxe Suites (258 square feet), Premier View Suites (280 square feet), and a 646-square-foot Royal Suite with a private deck, freestanding tub, and butler service. All suites feature floor-to-ceiling windows, natural wood finishes, gorgeous teak floors, ceramic basins, and locally woven textiles. Lower-floor rooms have balconies, while higher-floor rooms have window banquettes for reading, working, or watching the scenery float by.

There’s no generic corporate hand guiding the design here; rather, the decor takes cues from local culture and the landscape: neutral tones with deep green, rust, and marigold accents. Beds face the river. Spacious showers accommodate rainfall heads.

The elegant dining room on the ship. Courtesy of Mekong Kingdoms

Food and Drink

Meals onboard largely feature Laotian ingredients. Breakfast might include tropical fruit, local coffee, and both Western and local dishes. Lunches feature a salad bar and main course options ranging from grilled river fish, prawns, or red beef curries with sticky rice. At sunset, expect cocktails and canapés like prawn toast on the deck while mingling with guests. Dinners are more elaborate with a buffet bar in addition to multi-course meals. 

The bar on Bohème both classic cocktails and more creative options that highlight local flavors like lemongrass. Wine drinkers have a short but thoughtful list to choose a glass or bottle from. Cold Laotian beer is always available, even in guest room fridges. There are no imported foie gras or truffles here; the luxury is in the local sourcing and deeply flavored curries and Laotian dishes. If feeling inspired, guests can participate in cooking demonstrations and cocktail classes. 

Staff and Service

Service onboard is attentive and genuine. Many of the staff are young and deeply engaged — quick to learn preferences, curious about wine pairings or unfamiliar ingredients, and open to swapping knowledge with guests. It’s not rehearsed hospitality but rather feels collaborative: a team eager to refine their trade in real time.

Local guides bring nuance to each stop. Many staff have worked on the river or in the region for years and can offer context for what you’re seeing, whether it’s a fishermen’s village onshore or a seasonal shift in the water’s color.

The outdoor bar is the busiest spot on the ship. Courtesy of Mekong Kingdoms

Amenities

Despite its modest size, the ship includes a spa with two treatment rooms offering traditional Lao massage and aromatherapy. A fitness area faces the river, with just enough space for yoga or stretching in the mornings. The sun deck is lined with shaded loungers and built-in benches for reading during the silent passing of mountain and river scenery.

Wi-Fi is available but unpredictable. Most guests lean into that and leave their screens in the suite.

Susan Hull Walker and Ibu Partner Muhayo Alieva. Courtesy of Lauren Mowery

Trip Details

Bohème offers two seasonal itineraries, both operating between October and March when water levels on the Upper Mekong are most reliable.

The original five-night journey sails between Luang Prabang and Vientiane, covering approximately 250 miles of river. Rates start around $3,400 USD per person and include a suite, all meals and beverages (excluding premium wines), daily guided excursions, and airport transfers.

New for the 2024/2025 season is a condensed version of the route: the Mekong Rendezvous, a four-day, three-night cruise between Luang Prabang and Xayaboury. It hits many of the same highlights — Pak Ou Caves, Kuang Si Waterfalls, and the Elephant Centre — but in a shorter, more accessible format. Rates begin at $2,100 USD, with no single supplement, making it especially well-suited for solo travelers.

Most guests choose to stay at the Avani+ Luang Prabang hotel before or after their cruise. Located in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage town, the hotel offers contemporary elegance with a French neoclassical design blended with Laos’ cultural heritage. Its central location provides easy access to Luang Prabang’s markets, temples, and the Mekong River. When available, front desk staff have a golf cart available to take you around town should you need a drop-off or pick-up.

For full itineraries and upcoming departure dates, visit mekongkingdoms.com.

Founder and CEO of Azure Road, Lauren Mowery is a longtime wine, food, and travel writer. Mowery continues to serve on Decanter Magazine’s 12-strong US editorial team. Prior to joining Decanter, she spent five years as the travel editor at Wine Enthusiast. Mowery has earned accolades for her writing and photography, having contributed travel, drinks, food, and sustainability content to publications like Food & Wine, Forbes, Afar, The Independent, Saveur, Hemispheres, U.S. News & World Report, SCUBA Diving, Plate, Chef & Restaurant, Hotels Above Par, AAA, Fodors.com, Lonely Planet, USA Today, Men’s Journal, and Time Out, among others.

Pursuing her Master of Wine certification, she has also been a regular wine and spirits writer for Tasting Panel, Somm Journal, VinePair, Punch, and SevenFifty Daily. Mowery is a graduate of the University of Virginia and Fordham Law School, and she completed two wine harvests in South Africa.

Follow her on Instagram @AzureRoad and TikTok @AzureRoad

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