North Stars:

Heritage Value

Production & Consumption

Diversity & Inclusion

“I believe that our garments are sustainable because they are well crafted and last a lifetime, and are therefore the antithesis of fast fashion.”

For Margaret O’Leary, knitting would not only become her life skill but also lead to starting her own fashion brand. 

“The day I was born, my mother held me in one hand and knitting needles in the other,” remembers O’Leary. “This wasn’t a pastime for our family, but the way we got clothes to wear.” 

Being the second oldest of 12 siblings, this Irish-born clothing designer grew up in a rural farming community in County Kerry. In adulthood, O’Leary emigrated to the United States and ended up settling in San Francisco. As with other visitors, it was where she realized how chilly this California city can be. 

“The weather is very similar to Ireland. It’s kind of foggy; it can be rainy, it can be cold,” says O’Leary. Yet O’Leary had another concern on her mind – figuring out how to financially support herself. So she turned to doing what she knew. 

One Stitch at a Time

O’Leary began knitting sweaters and bringing them to local boutiques who took them on consignment. Working out of her tiny apartment, O’Leary organically developed what’s now her self-titled brand, Margaret O’Leary. 

At first, her sweaters were primarily woolen, a nod to her Irish heritage and the tradition of Aran sweaters. Named for their place of origin in the Aran Islands, these sweaters came about from Irish fishermen’s wives knitting woolen sweaters that kept them warm and waterproof while out at sea. 

Their stitchings reflect certain symbols, such as cables replicating fishermen’s ropes, and are seen as a form of personal identification.

“Each fisherman family would have their own unique pattern,” explains O’Leary, in how they apply to identifying Irish clans. “So that’s why sweaters are a very unique part of my culture and the DNA of the brand.” 

As O’Leary fostered relationships with San Francisco boutique owners in providing her pieces, they began to give her specific design requests: using cotton instead of wool, trying cashmere,  creating a simple cardigan. What she made sold.

O’Leary opened her first storefront in San Francisco’s Claude Lane in 1994, taking over a small space from a friend. While her shop would attract visiting customers through a write-up in a Fodor’s guidebook, her big break came when Barney’s asked her to fulfill an order. That introduced the Margaret O’Leary brand to NYC’s fashion scene and an inventory line now also incorporating tops and bottoms. 

Embracing Timelessness and Tradition

Today, O’Leary has 14 stores, with many based along California, but also including Seattle, Portland, OR., Denver, Chicago, and Boston. Her casual yet refined inventory of primarily women’s clothing, all handcrafted by makers from around the world.

While celebrating her heritage in her designs, O’Leary has described it as its own ‘Irish stew’ of stitches and colors. “I like to say I make slow fashion, through which one treasures their purchase season after season and mothers pass them down to daughters. I’m as proud of the inside seams as of the outside seams and the quality is evident. My customer is aware of the fast fashion options but chooses the care, craft and quality and fit of the Margaret product.”

While O’Leary notes that her company would never say that it has perfected every aspect of the production line, she says her brand tries hard in many areas. For example, an organic cotton option is chosen where possible as well as offering a natural undyed yarn. 

“I believe that our garments are sustainable because they are well-crafted and last a lifetime,  and are therefore the antithesis of fast fashion,” says O’Leary. “I’ve got customers that will show up at one of our stores to show me a piece they have had for 25 years!  And they still wear it daily!”

Sustainability in the Seams

Mindful sourcing is central to the brand’s sustainability ethos. For its cashmere, the company partners with ethical farms that prioritize animal welfare, including sustainable goat and sheep farms in Inner Mongolia — where responsible grazing practices are helping to restore severely degraded grasslands.

Durability is another cornerstone. The brand offers a repair program, inviting customers to bring back items for mending or re-detailing to extend their life cycle. It also donates clothing to women’s shelters and operates as an employee-owned company, with around 60 staff spanning retail, operations, and design.

Reflecting on the company’s future, O’Leary embraces a philosophy of intentional growth. “I didn’t set out to stay small,” she says, “but that’s what’s worked. We’re still the little company that could—but we don’t need to chase scale. There’s no pressure to grow fast. I’d rather stay quiet, slow, and steady.”