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“No cabanas or infinity pools here, only El Pretexto’s grounding comfort—traceable food, full exhales, and long-missed peace.”

For such a small island, Puerto Rico faces outsized challenges. There is the staggering debt crisis. The ongoing trauma of natural disasters, most notably, Hurricane Maria, whose full brunt hit in 2017, and from which FEMA aid has still yet to arrive for many residents. And then there’s the subtle but corrosive effect of tourism that is increasingly divorced from the place itself. Think: Offshore hotel chains replacing communities, peddling poolside eggs Benedict to visitors looking for something, well, more authentic. 

I felt this firsthand when planning a trip to San Juan. Scrolling past polished high-rise hotels filled with menus indistinguishable from business hotels in Miami, I felt frustrated. I wasn’t looking for a mimosa brunch — I wanted mofongo. And then, turning inland, I stumbled upon a secret. El Pretexto, which translates to “the excuse,” pulled me away from the beach, and up into the mountains of Cayey. It gave me exactly the kind of Puerto Rico I was hoping to encounter.

Finding an “Excuse” to Escape

Just an hour drive from the street food shacks of Playa Piñones, and past the winding bends of La Ruta de Lechón, the famous “Pork Highway” lined with roadside eateries slinging slow-roasted pork, lies El Pretexto. Nestled into the misty hills of Cayey, the 3.5-acre property encompasses 70 fruit trees, 518 coffee trees, an herb garden, vegetable garden, and 50 laying hens, plus one very gentlemanly rooster. Remarkably, it is one of the only true farm stays on the entire island. 

After the hurricanes that battered Puerto Rico in 2017, founder Crystal Diaz saw an opportunity to rebuild not just structures, but relationships to land, food, and community. In 2018, she opened what she calls the island’s “first culinary farm lodge.” Here, travelers can connect with the island’s agricultural roots and discover how much beauty and flavor grows from Puerto Rican soil.

There are only four villas here, all adults-only and distinct in their own right. Two peek out of the thick foliage, boasting views of valleys stretching all the way to the Caribbean, while the other two jungle-style cottages sit further in the forest, sheltered from view by greenery. At night, the mountain air turns cool, and the only sounds you’ll hear are the coquis serenading the darkness like a lullaby. Bright green lizards lounge lazily on the beams, keeping you company.

But, while the rooms are lovely, they’re not the reason to come here. That would be the food.

Trying a Taste of Puerto Rico 

Unlike the eggs Benedict one might encounter at a typical San Juan hotel, Crystal creates an unforgettable breakfast experience from her outdoor kitchen overlooking the mountains. A local fruit plate, with fresh berries from her garden and seasonal fruits from local farmers, starts things off, followed by eggs directly from the laying hens, served over breadwheat waffles made fresh.  

While breakfast is filling enough to keep you satisfied all day, whether you’re hiking around the area or visiting local art galleries, it’s far from the only culinary highlight. Every Tuesday and Saturday night, El Pretexto hosts a delightful farm-to-table dinner experience. Everything served is grown onsite or sourced from local farmers. One night’s menu included a farm potato soup with coconut foam, shepherd’s pie, a delicious salad, and a pastry made with local chocolate. 

If you want to go deeper, El Pretexto offers multi-day culinary retreats that include farm tours, cooking workshops, rum and coffee tastings, and plenty of time well spent in nature. Crystal is accommodating and always recommends a great hike, an excellent restaurant, or whatever else you might need. 

It’s a different kind of luxury. Here, there is no beach cabana, no infinity pool. But it’s far more endearing. Staying at El Pretexto allows for the feeling of being grounded, of eating food with an origin you can trace, of exhaling fully — for me at least — for the first time in years. 

If you’re looking for a polished hotel stay on the beach, this isn’t that. But if you’re ready, or in fact, even just interested in slowing down, breathing deeply, and eating with intention, well then, El Pretexto can be your excuse, too.  

What to Know

El Pretexto is located about a one-hour drive from San Juan. Booking a rental car is the best way to get there, and there are rental agencies at the airport. High season at El Pretexto is mid-December to April; however, I visited in July, technically hurricane season, but still lovely.

While breakfast is included with your stay, the farm-to-table dinners must be booked in advance on El Pretexto’s website.