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“For all its glory, the Cherohala Skyway is often overlooked. Its cult following is happy to keep it that way.”

Day is drawing to a close, with the sky dripping the landscape in honeyed light. From my perch on the back of the bike, I peek over Will’s shoulder to watch golden rays winking through thickets of oaks and rhododendrons. We rise above the treeline, and the world cracks open to reveal peaks and valleys in every direction. The Great Smoky Mountains sprawl like a sleeping beast, while our electric motorcycle whispers along its body, careful not to disturb its hundred-million-year-long nap.

Never mind my feet cramping from gripping the foot pegs. Never mind my flash of terror every time we lean into a downward curve. Here, flying along the Cherohala Skyway while I hold fast to my love, is where I belong.

The Risk and Reward of Motorcycle Riding

For decades, I avoided motorcycles. I not only knew the grim accident statistics, I knew a friend who’d crashed, who now walked around full of pins and pain and regret. Any time the opportunity had arisen to hop onto a bike, I’d firmly declined. Then I met Will. 

A rider since boyhood, Will seemed as comfortable on two wheels as on his own two feet. He’d turned his passion into a profession by working with Zero Motorcycles, a Northern California-based manufacturer that had helped pioneer electric motorcycles. He took safety seriously: Rather than a sleek leather jacket, he wore a fluorescent yellow safety jumpsuit, frayed from countless test rides. 

Face-to-face with an expert, it was time for me to loosen my rule against motorcycles. I jumped on the back of the bike with Will and let the adventures begin. It was several months after resettling in North Carolina when he suggested a weekend ride on the nearby Cherohala Skyway. 

The Allure of the Skyway

Offering an unparalleled tour of the Great Smoky Mountains, the Cherohala Skyway runs 43 miles from the tiny mountain towns of Robbinsville, North Carolina, to Tellico Plains, Tennessee. Along the way, it passes through old-growth forests, undulating mountains, towering peaks exceeding 5,000 feet. Travelers can stop at waterfalls, paddling holes, picnic spots, and rugged hikes. Parts of the route follow the footpaths of the region’s original inhabitants, the Cherokee people; many local roads here bear signs in English and Cherokee.

For all its glory, the Cherohala Skyway is often overlooked in favor of the more popular Blue Ridge Parkway (the most visited National Park unit in the country). Its cult following of road warriors and outdoor enthusiasts are happy to keep it that way.

One exception is Austin Ammarell, cofounder of EMoto Powersports, who readily spreads the gospel of Cherohala Skyway and other local routes, enticing visitors with electric motorcycle rentals and tour information.

“Many other places share the same characteristics as the Cherohala Skyway,” Ammarell says, “Twisty roads, nice pavement, beautiful views. Almost none have this one: community. The people who come here to enjoy this area are like nothing else.”

According to Ammarell, Southern Appalachia is also becoming increasingly accessible to EVs, with many towns installing Level 2 or Level 3 charging stations. Upgraded electric motorcycles also charge much more quickly than cars. “The increased charging availability has and will continue to have the greatest impact on the EV riding experience up here [in the mountains].”

Trust and The Passenger Experience

Much has been written by gearhead-philosophers about the experience of driving a motorcycle, but little testimony exists on what it’s like to be a passenger. Trust is the trick. With no command over the bike, the lack of control can be terrifying. 

Turns out, it’s also liberating. Much of life, after all, involves a lack of control. Anything can happen when we’re not at the proverbial wheel. I’ve been riding with Will for four years now. Am I still afraid? Sure. But the benefits of riding–for me, anyway–far outweigh the risks.

We ride on. At Huckleberry Knob, we stretch our legs for a hike to the grassy mountaintop, basking in 360-degree views. Cruising into Tellico Plains, we pass the river, full of swimmers and kayakers. With every passing mile, I realize that my only job here is to relax, stay centered, and take every corner as it comes. I can handle it.

Ride Electric, Ride Sustainably

While electric cars usually get most of the attention in the EV conversation, two-wheeled rides have been on the rise as well, with Zero Motorcycles at the forefront.

Twenty years ago, the company emerged as the first original equipment manufacturer to seriously pursue electrification in two-wheel transportation. Zero Motorcycles have no tailpipe emissions, require fewer replacement materials like spark plugs, and extend brake life through regenerative braking. It’s worth noting that the first rider to circumnavigate the globe on an electric motorcycle, Roman Niedelka, rode a Zero Motorcycle.

Zero rep Bryan Campbell says, “It’s not just about being ‘green’ for the sake of it; it’s about riding with intention and understanding the impact of every mile.”

And then, there’s the noise, or lack thereof. “Electric motorcycles drastically reduce noise pollution,” adds Campbell. “That might not seem like a big deal — until you’ve experienced a silent ride winding through the forest or a quiet commute at dawn. Sustainability isn’t just about carbon; it’s about the quality of our shared spaces and how we move through them.”

Keep Calm and Ride On

We’ve just crested a peak near the Tennessee line when I get a stark reminder of the risks involved with riding motorcycles. Coming to a standstill in traffic — a rarity here —  we learn there’s been a motorcycle accident. For the next half-hour, all of us hold a sort of vigil.

As we wait, a little girl pops her head out of a minivan just ahead. She looks at me, grinning. “Is riding a motorcycle so much fun?”

“Honestly,” I tell her, “I was scared of motorcycles for most of my life.” Then, realizing she might be afraid too, I add, “Don’t worry, you can do it. It’s like riding a roller coaster, but instead of riding through a theme park, you can ride through the whole entire world.”

The girl beams as if she’ll give it a try someday. I hope she will.

Skyway Tips & Logistics

• While the Great Smoky Mountains are beautiful during any season, the best time to ride the Cherohala Skyway is late spring through early fall. Check the weather forecast, as upper elevations are subject to ice and snow during most months of the year.
• There is no electricity for the length of the Cherohala Skyway, so charge your bike and devices before departing. Find chargers via Plugshare App .
• There are no concessions or other services along the route, so pack snacks, water, sunscreen, and a first aid kit.
• Restrooms are few and far between, but you’ll find one at the Hooper Bald parking lot (Milepost 8). 
• Cell service is spotty. Plan accordingly. 
• To reach the Cherohala Skyway, the closest airport is Asheville Regional Airport, just under two hours from Robbinsville. South Carolina’s Greenville-Spartanburg and Georgia’s Hartsfield-Jackson International Airports are also within a three-hour drive of Robbinsville.

Eat, Drink, Explore, and Stay

Make the most of your journey in this wild part of the country by discovering its natural and cultural history. Yellow Creek Falls and Huckleberry Knob are both lovely spots for scenic vistas and hikes. Paddle the serene waters of Lake Santeetlah or Indian Boundary Lake, or raft or kayak the roaring Tellico or Cheoah Rivers. 

To fuel up, stop in Tellico Plains for homemade pizza and pastries at Tellico Grains. Then head across the tiny town square to Cherohala Skyway Visitors Center and learn more about the history of the area, including the Cherokee people. 

For where to stay: Check into Snowbird Mountain Lodge, an all-inclusive, 1940s-era hideaway on Lake Santeetlah with mountain-view rooms, locally-sourced dining, and EV charging stations.

Thanks to The Indigo Road Hospitality Group and Sprouthouse Agency for hosting our lodging at the Snowbird Mountain Lodge.